Mandalay Bay led the anti-theme-park charge when it debuted in 1999 on the far south end of the Strip and again raised the bar with the opening of its adjoining all-suite THEhotel tower four years later. Today, THEhotel is a slick playground that falls just short of being an over-the-top experience — intentionally and much to my delight.

A subtle Asian theme (picture dark woods and rice paper lighting) sets a sedate tone in the private lobby, which is far from the beep-clink-a-ling of the casino in Mandalay’s main building. Upstairs, THEsuites are among the largest in the city at 725 square feet, and they come with floor-to-ceiling views of mountains, Mandalay Beach or the Strip. Soft browns, gunmetal flourishes and Deco furniture create a noir glam vibe, but the details are all about comfort: plush linens, a separate half bath with soaking tub, two plasma televisions and — this is Vegas, after all — a wet bar.


Set on the hotel's top floor, the Lounge at Mix has a hip after dark scene. Bathhouse, the tower’s elegant first-floor spa and gym, is equipped with hot and cold pools and saunas incorporated into an almost labyrinthine design done up in black slate, glass and soothing underfoot waterfalls. And it offers personalized aromatherapy treatments.

The 64th-floor crown of the property is the Michelin-starred miX — Alain Ducasse’s first Vegas venture — which is clad in white and silver and has a massive chandelier of 15,000 hand-blown glass spheres. In the evening it is transformed into the pulsating Lounge at Mix, one of the area’s hippest clubs. It draws a glittery crowd of travelers and locals to its balcony, which has spectacular views of the Strip.

From there it’s just a short stumble to the action in the main resort. There’s the 135,000 square-foot casino, the House of Blues, the Aureoles vertical wine cellar and the Minus 5 Ice Lounge, where everything from the bar to the seats to the glasses are made of ice. For a warmer outing, dig your toes into real sand (2,700 tons worth) at the Mandalay Beach, which also has a lazy river, a wave pool and an adults-only section. If you're bringing kids, book tickets for The Lion King and the Shark Reef Aquarium, North America’s only predator-centric aquarium.

My favorite detail? The shimmering gilt windows, which are made with gold leaf.